Gravel Provence Circuit: in the footsteps of Marcel Pagnol and Provençal authenticity
Embark on a quest for authentic Provence and cycle through the landscapes and villages that inspired Marcel Pagnol's novels and films. Through colorful landscapes, rocky paths, and roads imbued with the scents of Provence, this gravel adventure is an ode to disconnection.
Organization of the Gravel Tour in Provence:
Focus on the pleasure of riding thanks to the support vehicle:
- Transports your luggage every day from one accommodation to another
- Takes care of lunch and joins the group at noon
Accompanied by a local guide who pedals with the group:
- With years of experience in the region
- Carefully selected the best routes to discover
Possibility to rent a high-quality gravel bike
Day 1: Arrival in Toulon. Gravel to Signes.
🚵🏽♂️ 58 km
⛰️ + 1,800 m
🛣️ 27% tracks and trails, 73% paved roads
We leave the hustle and bustle of the Mediterranean coast behind us to immerse ourselves in the tranquility of the Provençal hills. The route takes us through unspoiled nature, lined with holm oaks and scrubland. The gradual climb offers magnificent views of Toulon harbor and the surrounding hills. The day ends in Signes, a charming hilltop village, where we can enjoy the authentic and peaceful atmosphere of inland Provence. An ideal introduction to this gravel trip, combining moderate effort and immersion in the Mediterranean landscapes. This first stage ends in Signes, a Provençal gem with a peaceful atmosphere, particularly outside the tourist season. This village, marked by a rich program of festivities between April and September, nevertheless retains its authentic and welcoming character thanks to its inhabitants who know how to adapt to the flow of visitors. Let's take the time to wander its narrow streets in the evening before a well-deserved rest at our accommodation.
Day 2: From Signes to Gémenos
🚵🏽♂️ 52 km
⛰️ + 1,200 m
🛣️ 45% paths and trails, 55% paved roads
Before leaving the village, a good warm-up is essential. The first climbs quickly become demanding: some sections require dismounting for portages and pushes. We advance through holm oak and kermes oak forests.
A technical singletrack takes over, with its share of natural obstacles that will test even the best riders. Group solidarity will be essential to overcome these passages. Once these initial difficulties are overcome, a wide track leads us to the foot of the Sainte-Baume massif, imposing and majestic, which seems to block the way to our quest for discovery. After this initial effort, a stop in the village of Mazaugues will be welcome. This quiet and charming place gives us a space to refuel and adjust our bike settings, as the biggest challenge of the stage remains to come: the Col de Bertagne.
Offering impressive panoramas, the climb takes us near the Hospice de la Sainte-Baume, a place steeped in history and spirituality. Once at the top of the pass, the descent to Gémenos offers challenging terrain where the ever-present gravel and stones test our balance and endurance. This technical section passes near the ruins of the Abbey of Saint-Pons, a historic site that connects medieval heritage with the stories of Marcel Pagnol. The sections on foot and in the saddle follow one another, with breathtaking views of the distant Mediterranean. However, in case of bad weather, an alternative route via the Col de l'Espigoulier is planned to safely reach Gémenos (via more accessible paved roads). The arrival in Gémenos, an elegant village nestled in the hills of Provence, marks the end of this intense stage. This place, both authentic and refined, offers a perfect setting to recharge after a day combining physical challenges, immersion in nature, and delving into local history.
Day 3: From Gémenos to Cassis
🚵🏽♂️ 46 km
⛰️ + 1,100 m
🛣️ 58% paths and trails, 42% roads
This stage, the shortest on paper, offers us wonderful sensations and emotions. From the first turns of the wheel, we reach the hills bathed in the spirit of Marcel Pagnol. Here, everything exudes authenticity: the rocky paths, the scents of the garrigue, and the silence interrupted only by birdsong, the rustling of the wind in the oaks, or the sound of our wheels on the gravel.
Very quickly, we approach the Garlaban, this emblematic massif that watches over Provence. As we cross the ridges and plunge into the valleys, we feel the vibrant force that Pagnol so beautifully captured in his stories. Then, we head back down to Aubagne for a break at the writer's birthplace, where his childhood memories come to life. After this immersion in Pagnol's life, a detour through the hills takes us to Manon des Sources, Angèle's farm, and the legendary settings of his novels.
But this day isn't just a tribute: it's also an adventure. Between bike portages, technical sections, and breathtaking descents, balance and humility will be required to reach our destination safely and avoid pitfalls.
We end our journey at the magnificent port of Cassis. Before arriving there, Carnoux and the architectural legacy of Tony Garnier provide a striking contrast to the rural nature of the hills we cross. In Cassis, a seaside terrace and a refreshing swim in the warm blue waters of the Mediterranean await us.
Day 4: From Cassis to Toulon
🚵🏽♂️ 66 km
⛰️ + 1,100 m
🛣️ 38% paths and trails, 62% roads
This Provençal journey is coming to an end, but one final grandiose act awaits us. From the cliffs of Cassis to the port of Toulon, we leave the port via the legendary Route des Crêtes. The dizzying red and yellow rocks plunge spectacularly into the Mediterranean, much to our delight. The sea breezes carry our breath to La Ciotat, the birthplace of cinema and Marcel Pagnol. There, a stop at the Eden Théâtre cinema is a must. It's a legendary place where the Lumière brothers screened their first films and where Pagnol's works have influenced generations. We head back towards Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer, where Provence reasserts itself in a kaleidoscope of vineyards, olive groves, and cypress-lined paths. Our adventure continues with technical and playful sections. A veritable dance begins between stony climbs and exhilarating descents, until we reach the ascent of Cap Sicié. Here, the panorama is breathtaking: at our feet, the Saint-Mandrier peninsula stretches out. A good opportunity to recall a quote from a Pagnol film: "The beauty of a landscape is like a caress, it touches the heart" (The Well-Digger's Daughter).
Then, a smooth descent guides us towards Toulon. We reach the city aboard a river shuttle crossing the harbor with a breathtaking view of Fort Balaguier. An alternative cycle route takes us through Les Sablettes, along a luminous coastline, to reach the historic center.
This final crossing, lulled by the lapping of the waves and the light of the setting sun, beautifully marks the end of a journey that immerses us in the vibrant soul of Provence. This journey is not only a tribute to Marcel Pagnol, but also a personal quest, where each pedal stroke creates unforgettable memories with our traveling companions. We leave with a sweet nostalgia, laughter, emotion, and shared effort.
